April/May Newsletter: Camping, Curlews & Cougars

April/May 2012

A Message from the President

Sean Gerrity, APR President

Spring is upon us once again, and the prairie is blooming with new life. I spent a week on the Reserve with my wife Kayla in late April and everywhere we turned we saw signs of a thriving landscape. There are more prairie dogs than we’ve ever seen before and the Reserve’s Sharp-tailed and Greater Sage Grouse leks are brimming with activity. We also spent some time talking with a few Reserve visitors who had come to enjoy the spectacle of hundreds of grassland birds returning to the prairie. It’s truly rewarding to see people of all ages turning out to enjoy the Reserve and I hope you’ll plan to visit this summer. If you’d like a visitor’s map or information about our campground, please send us a note or give us a call and we’d be happy to send you information to help you plan your visit.

APR President Named National Geographic Fellow

We’re excited to announce that American Prairie Reserve President Sean Gerrity has been named a National Geographic Fellow. The National Geographic Fellows Program was established to help researchers and other specialists define and develop outstanding special projects. With guidance and support from the National Geographic Society, Fellows generate and cultivate ideas that often become far-reaching, long-lasting programs. Sean will join the sixteen other National Geographic Fellows who develop international programs for conservation and preservation that inspire people to care about the planet.

We’re honored by this chance to deepen our relationship with National Geographic, which reflects a shared commitment to the conservation of the Earth’s natural treasures, and believe Sean’s role as a Fellow will provide new opportunities to raise awareness of our efforts. We look forward to working together in the months ahead.

Visitor Story: Birding on American Prairie Reserve

Tent in the public campground on American Prairie Reserve. Photo: Dennis J. Lingohr

With the onset of spring, visitors are already turning out to enjoy the sight of hundreds of prairie birds returning to the Reserve from their winter migrations. Montana resident Beth Madden and a friend were among the early visitors to the Reserve in April, eager to see the first birds of the season. “We had long wanted to visit the prairie reserve, and their new public campground offered the perfect setting, putting us right in the heart of the place,” Beth said, “Once we set up our tent and made camp, the excitement was palpable as we set off exploring and bird-watching.”

Sights to See: Indian Lake Medicine Rock

Examining the petroglyphs carved into the Indian Lake Medicine Rock. Photo: Dakota Meeks

Located on BLM land near the northwestern border of the Core Reserve, the Indian Lake Medicine Rock, also called Indian Rock, spans centuries of geologic and human history. It is considered to be a glacially-transported boulder from the Rocky Mountain Front termed an “erratic,” and Plains Indians carved petroglyphs depicting bird tracks, hooves and directional symbols into the rock. Through carbon dating, scientists have established that some of the petroglyphs may have been carved as long ago as 8,000 BC. On occasion, visitors will see small trinkets such as burned sweetgrass bundles, coins and colored cloth placed on and around the boulder, which remind us that the site continues to be spiritually important to Native peoples. These offerings should not be disturbed or touched.

WWF Update: Cougar Study Enters Its Fifth Year

Cougar in the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge. Photo: USFWS

Researchers with World Wildlife Fund and the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge continue their efforts to track mountain lion populations in the Reserve region. Using trained hounds to tree lions for collaring, the field team expanded the study into the Missouri River Breaks in 2011 after record snowfall created ideal capture conditions. Five cougars were successfully fitted with GPS collars designed to record each animal’s location every five hours for the next year. In 2012, one cougar was successfully re-collared and another was collared for the first time and nicknamed “Stubby,” since it had no tail. After being nearly eradicated in the early 20th century, the cougar population around American Prairie Reserve is slowly rebounding. Studies like this one offer valuable insight into the movements and population trends of cougars, providing a better understanding of the role that these predators play in the ecosystem.

Wildlife Species: Long-billed Curlew

Photo: Diane Hargreaves

Easily recognized by its lengthy curved beak, the long-billed curlew is a migratory shorebird listed as a “species of conservation concern” throughout North America. Migrating as far south as the Gulf of Mexico during the winter, long-billed curlews breed in North American grasslands, including the American Prairie Reserve region. Much to the delight of onlookers, they perform elaborate mating dances during breeding season and display their aerial prowess to potential mates with fast, looping flight patterns. Population numbers were significantly reduced by the end of the 19th century but have since begun to rebound. American Prairie Reserve is engaged in cooperative studies with World Wildlife Fund, the Point Reyes Bird Observatory, The Nature Conservancy, the University of California, Davis, the U.S. Geological Survey and local ranchers to track curlew migrations in the area and is playing an important role in the long-term survival of the species by providing undisturbed habitat and nesting sites on Reserve lands.

What We’re Reading Now: APR in the News

American Prairie Reserve is making news in Montana this spring with recent articles in the Big Sky Journal and Montana Sporting Journal. The Big Sky Journal’s summer issue features a five-page article by Scott McMillion entitled “Adventures on the Silent Prairie,” which highlights the Reserve as an emerging visitor destination and includes dramatic photos by Reserve Foreman Dennis Lingohr, APR Board Chair Gib Myers, and Diane Hargreaves. The article includes information about the many recreational opportunities available to Reserve visitors, such as hiking, camping and wildlife viewing.

In the current issue of Montana Sporting Journal, a three-page interview with APR President, Sean Gerrity, focuses on public access to the Reserve and outlines our commitment to participating in Montana’s Block Management Program, which opens private land to sportsmen. Together, these two articles paint a compelling picture of the Reserve as an exciting outdoor destination – a landscape that is open to the public and still growing thanks to individuals like you.

By The Numbers: Bird Abundance

145   Bird species identified on American Prairie Reserve since 2005
77   Species of songbirds on the Reserve
50   Riparian bird species on the Reserve
25   Birds classified as Montana “Species of Concern” found on APR

A Vastly Exposed Place of Concealment

A Vastly Exposed Place of Concealment – Visitor Story by Beth Madden

I came to understand that the prairies are nothing but grass, as the sea is nothing but water…The prairie is not a topography that shows its all but rather a vastly exposed place of concealment…where the splendid lies within the plain cover.

(William Least Heat-Moon, PrairyErth)

My friend and I arrived at the Buffalo Camp on the American Prairie Reserve around mid-day on Saturday April 21, greeted by the solitude of an empty campground (but for a group of five bull bison grazing nearby).

Was it ever heartening to see such vast areas of intact prairie and sagebrush habitat.  For some, the miles of continuous prairies and sagebrush might look monotonous, like a vast landscape of ‘nothing,’ but for us – knowing the treasures contained within – it was a thrilling sight.

Chestnut-collared longspur by Russell Chatham

First off, just the drive in to the American Prairie Reserve’s campground offers some prime prairie birding through large tracts of public land (BLM and state) and private ranches.  With little to no traffic, it was easy to putter along with the windows down, listening for that special bird song that makes a person slam on the brakes (in our case, it was a Sprague’s pipit).  Even though it was only late April and many prairie birds are not back from their wintering grounds yet, a few were in high gear and putting on quite a show on their breeding territories: long-billed curlews, western meadowlarks, horned larks, and chestnut-collared longspurs.   American kestrels and Swainson’s hawks abounded.  Withour map of the APR and surroundings we were able to identify which tracts were public so we could jump out to get a closer look – nothing like standing on a small prairie hilltop and having dapper chestnut-collared longspurs skylarking around us, singing on the wing.

We had long wanted to visit the prairie reserve, and their new public campground offered the perfect setting, putting us right in the heart of the place.  Once we set up our tent and made camp, the excitement was palpable as we set off exploring and bird-watching. Should we go to the Buffalo Jump?  The Indian Rock?  The Fourchette Bay Overlook? Every direction beckoned with something of interest and we were not disappointed.

Scouting the morning prairie sea over coffee; nothing better.

In the two days we were there, a few highlights included: a sunrise mating display from more than 30 sage grouse dancing on a lek; great glimpses into life in prairie dog towns, complete with burrowing owls staking out their burrow entrances; and songbirds like sage thrashers belting out choruses across the sea of sagebrush.  Our sighting of a pair of McCown’s longspurs in a prairie dog town was the first for the Reserve (though they have been seen nearby in Phillips County), but it points to the fact that this area is relatively unexplored.

The Reserve is dotted with small wetlands, both stock ponds and natural depressions, and migrating and breeding water birds had found them all.  We counted 14 species of ducks.  With the warm weather, reptiles and amphibians were making appearances too.  We saw painted turtles, a prairie garter snake, a gophersnake, and heard chorus frogs singing from every tiny puddle of water.  Mammals included bison, pronghorn, mule deer, prairie dogs, and coyotes.

Given that it was only the end of April and many birds had not arrived back from the wintering grounds, we were astounded at all there was to see.  When the northern lights graced our tent in the darkness of our second and last night on the Reserve, we knew a return trip was in order as soon as possible.

Note:  Help Prevent the Spread of Noxious Weeds – clean your boots and vehicles!  Be sure and clean the dried mud out of your boot soles before a trip to the prairie reserve – it is still relatively weed-free area and noxious weeds are a looming threat.  I routinely hike on a knapweed-covered hill near Livingston, and though I couldn’t see the tiny seeds, I knew the dried mud in my boot soles was full of them.  My friend from Bozeman found Hound’s-tongue seeds (those small sticky burrs) in her boot soles when she cleaned them.  We never saw either of these noxious weeds at the Reserve – let’s help keep it that way!

- Beth Madden, 2012

National Park Week & the Montana Triangle

During National Park Week from April 21-29, the public can visit all of the national parks for free. Montana’s two national parks, Glacier and Yellowstone, are popular attractions throughout the year and are bound to have an influx of visitors this week who are anxious to see the parks alive with spring activity.

Although the two parks have concentrated much of the state’s tourism in the western half of the state, American Prairie Reserve (APR) provides the missing part of a well-rounded trip to Montana – the prairie! Best of all, APR is free every day of the year.

Using an itinerary that we refer to as the “Montana Triangle,” visits to Glacier, Yellowstone and APR provide even a seasoned, in-state traveler with unique experiences spanning multiple ecoregions and a diversity of wildlife. Hot springs, bison, mountaintops, birds, and starry skies can all be had as you explore these quintessential landscapes of the American West.

Planning a Triangle trip that includes eastern Montana is easy, scenic and full of attractions for kids and adults. Just south of APR is the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge, and travel to and from the region introduces travelers to the Montana Northeastern Plains Birding Trail and the Montana Dinosaur Trail. History buffs will enjoy learning about, seeing and even floating the route of Lewis & Clark – paddlers can enjoy the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument and boaters shouldn’t pass up a day of fishing on the Fort Peck Reservoir.

Learn more about Montana tourism by using the links below – and plan to stay at APR’s public campground once you have your Triangle trip planned!

• Official State Travel Site
• Yellowstone National Park
• Glacier National Park
• Montana Vacation Planning Kit
• Travel in the American Prairie Reserve region
• Montana Birding and Nature Trail
• Montana Dinosaur Trail
• Montana Indian Nations
• Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge
• Upper Missouri Breaks National Monument
• Montana Kids

Visitor and Volunteer: Reflections for National Volunteer Week

In honor of National Volunteer Week, we have been spreading the word about upcoming volunteer opportunities on our Facebook, Twitter and Google+ pages. From volunteer work safaris to serving as our Buffalo Camp host, volunteers are a valuable addition to our organization and allow us to further our mission of assembling a world-class wildlife reserve that is open and accessible to the public.

Last year, we were fortunate to to have a dedicated volunteer, Elinor, who took on projects both on the Reserve and our Bozeman office. This week, Elinor reflects on her time with American Prairie Reserve, which she says “changed the way I think about preserving open space.”

The first time I saw the bison, I wanted to touch their fur. I wanted to so badly I could feel the ends of my fingertips prickle. (I had a flashback to an early museum field trip—reaching my tiny hand towards a sculpture and being scolded by the chaperone.) Rationally, I knew it was impossible and unethical to pet the animals. Subconsciously, I took a step forward and stood very still.

The herd was grazing, and the sound they made was louder than I would have guessed. A low, wet, smacking noise. I ached to touch one. The bison were not disturbed by my presence. Slowly they began to move closer to me. This is relative—they moved about 10 feet—but still, I felt absurdly lucky.

The experience was exhausting. I wanted more, but I didn’t know what ‘more’ would look like. I could not have gotten closer than I was that day without crossing a line.

The American Prairie Reserve is free and open to the public. I still live in Montana. Hypothetically I can go see those bison at any time. And isn’t that wealth? Or better yet, the kind of wealth that never grows stale? Open space and wild animals can be publically accessible and yet completely unattainable. To spend time in a wild place is to live in a permanent state of desire.

- Written by Elinor M.

During her time on the Reserve, Elinor also volunteered with biologists on the neighboring C. M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge to help with their black-footed ferret reintroduction program.

In the News: American Prairie Reserve’s Bison Restoration Efforts

Bison bulls wallow at sunrise the morning of the 2012 bison release. Photo by Dennis J. Lingohr

Over the last month, American Prairie Reserve’s bison restoration efforts have been featured in several well-known regional, national and international outlets. Now in our 7th year of bison restoration activities, we’re happy to share our “good news” bison story far and wide. To read complete articles from each publication, please follow the links below:

The Economist: “Reclaiming Montana: Born to be Wild“

In a quiet spot in eastern Montana, on rolling golden prairies and under vast skies, 71 buffalo calves charge out of a corral. Kicking up dust as they run, they quickly join a herd of several hundred American buffalo of all ages. The calves had arrived by road from Elk Island reserve in Canada; they are pure descendants of the buffalo that once lived in this area. At the end of the 19th century just a few were saved from American hunters and bred, in peace, on the other side of the border… READ MORE FROM THE ECONOMIST.

The Washington Post: “Captivity could help polar bears survive global warming assault, some zoos say,” by Juliet Eilperin

…this month 71 bison calves were released on the American Prairie Reserve, reintroduced from a herd a member of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai tribes was forced to sell the Canadian government in 1907 when the Flathead Reservation was opened to homesteaders. “If you don’t build these insurance populations when you have the animals, then it’s too late,” said the Toledo Zoo’s mammals curator Randi Meyerson… READ MORE FROM THE WASHINGTON POST.

The Financial Times: “Home on the range: prairie bison return“

This month’s release of 71 bison on the American Prairie Reserve in Montana was a notable event in US habitat restoration. The animals are pure-blooded descendants of one of the last free-roaming herds of Montana bison, which were rounded up in 1906 and transferred 650 miles north to Elk Island National Park in Alberta, Canada… READ MORE FROM THE FINANCIAL TIMES.

Montana Quarterly: “Pulled from the Brink,” by Scott McMillion

Bison are coming home to the American Prairie. You can love that fact or you can hate it. But bison and their advocates are poised for what conservationists call the “second round” of recovery. How and where it will play out remains uncertain, but the biology is the simple part… VISIT THE MONTANA QUARTERLY WEBSITE. (The article appears in the Spring 2012 issue).